The tap for the rusty steering rack extensions came during the week. Just a few minutes work to clean the threads and assemble the ball joint. Logic told me that the ball joint should enter the hub from the top. Should the nyloc work free, the steering will at least be connected by gravity and the morse taper. When it was obvious that the ball joint did not fit from the top I doubted whether I had fitted the hubs to the right sides of the car. Checking my reference photos I found that the ball joint enters the hub from underneath, so nothing wrong with the construction – just seems an odd way of doing it.
Having finished the steering rack assembly I adjust the distance from the back of the lock nut and the centre of the top ball joint to approx. 48mm and the steering rack extensions so that the wheels point straight. The clearance below the steering rack gaiters either side is very tight. Only a couple of millimetres. But it is clear – just.
As the side panels are not on yet, all this will have to come off again, so I have not tightened any of the nylocs and non of the IVA plastics have been installed. I now have all 4 corners built and the steering working. Pretty much a rolling chassis.
Automotive Projects Blog
The body is one of the important parts of an automobile.As well as Steering racks.Your clips are really mean for me and like others.Good work.
You are uploaded very keen steering problems normally we have.I know One of the most difficult things to design and build on a car is the steering mechanism.That was very informative post.Thanks a lot.
Steering Rack